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by Fred McMillin
for November 16, 1998
The Zinfandel Magic Spell
Prologue
The father
of California winemaking, Count Agoston Haraszthy,(pictured),
owned a vineyard south of San Francisco. He received a shipment
of vines from Europe, including the Zinfandel, a variety
from his native Hungary. He planted his Zinfandel, the first
ever known in California, in the spring of 1852. Ten years
later Haraszthy produced California's first Zinfandel wine.
The Rest of the Story
Above is Prof. Thomas Pinney's account of the early understanding
of the arrival of California's most widely-planted red wine
grape. However, California's original Zin actually arrived
by a different route. Here are the highlights.
1830—The Zinfandel has reached the U.S.A. And is being
grown in the nursery of William Prince on Long Island, New
York.
1840's—Zinfandel is widely grown under glass in the East.
1852—The Zinfandel arrives in California, imported from
France by San Jose nurseryman Antoine Delmas. It is called
the Black St. Peter's.
1859—Zinfandel wins its first major award when Delmas
garners first place at the State Fair with his new grape.
1864—Haraszthy wins first place at the San Francisco Mechanics
Institute with a red wine made from the Black St. Peter's
(Zinfandel) vines he purchased in Sonoma.
That takes care of the original Zin. Now let's turn
to the BEST Zin. Here's the top bottle my panel has tasted
this year.
The Wine
1996 Especial Zinfandel, Paso Robles
Peachy Canyon Winery, Paso Robles
Rating—EXCELLENT, outscoring more than 60 rivals this
year.
Phone—(805) 237-1577
Price—$25 range
Note: For more about Peachy Canyon, see the recent
Oct. 26, 1998 WineDay titled, " A
Peachy Zin."
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About the Writer
Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history
for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine
courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College.
In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred
with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded
to American wine writers.
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Fred McMillin
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