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by Fred McMillin
for September 21, 1998
Happy Rosh Hashanah
Prologue
In
honor of the Jewish New Year, today's wine has an Old Testament
connection. The name is Eshcol (esh-cole), which refers
to Biblical times and means "a large bunch of grapes." The
drawing pictures Joshua and Caleb bringing such a bunch
to Moses, which they found near the brook of Eshcol.
The Evolution of Eshcol
1852—Massachusetts sea captain Joseph W. Osborne establishes
a vineyard at Oak Knoll, which soon becomes the largest
(50 acres) in the Napa Valley.
1863—Capt. Osborne has become the leading vintner in the
valley when a former employee murders him. The estate has
expanded to 1,800 acres.
1882—The estate acquires new owners, Napa bankers James
and George Goodman, and a new name, Eshcol.
1886—A large wooden winery is built on the property.
1935—The winery-vineyard reopens after Prohibition. Its
principal activity is supplying grapes to Beringer.
1968—Kaiser Industries President Eugene Trefethen (treh-FETH-en)
purchase the property, which is now 600 acres, the largest
estate vineyard in the Napa Valley.
1973
- Son John and his bride, Janet, revive the origional wooden
winery and produce the first Trefethen wine. A few years
later they introduce a second label, Eshcol, good
wine at a very good price. It still is today, a Chardonnay
and a Cabernet from prestigious Napa Valley grapes...a real
bargain in the $11 range.
Postscript
When Eugene Trefethen purchased the old "Eshcol Ranch
Vineyard" thirty years ago, he knew there was some replanting
in his future. You see, the ground was covered with such
smashing varieties as Monduese, Golden Chasselas and the
unforgettable Lenore.
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About the Writer
Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history
for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine
courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College
and is Northern California Editor for American Wine on the
Web. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored
Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded
to American wine writers.
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Fred McMillin
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