by Fred McMillin for July 23, 1997 An Angelic Zinfandel Prologue: "I have yet to see the red wine of any variety, which I would prefer to the best samples of Zinfandel produced in California. Unfortunately these BEST samples are like angels visits, few and far between." ... Professor George Husmann, 1888 The Rest of the Story: Kendall-Jackson Winemaker Randy Ullom has made one of those "best samples," his '95 Vintner's Reserve Zinfandel. He did not make it from a single vineyard, but rather took advantage of the different flavors of three different regions. Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley furnished tart blackberry...moderate Mendocino contributed raspberry and spice...warm Amador County added its well-known jammy plum and pepper. It is worth the price of admission simply to try to identify these components. 1995 Vintner's Reserve Zinfandel, California Kendall-Jackson Santa Rosa, CA Food Affinities—Smooth enough for veal, intense enough for beef. Contact—Mike Lynch, (707)525-6279 $18 Postscript: Hats Off to Hussman White Zinfandel swept the USA in the last two decades. Prof. Husmann anticipated the development by 100 years. In 1888 he wrote, "There are many locations in California where the Zinfandel has been planted, and will not make a first class red wine, where it could be utilized better for white wine. In this case, let the grapes be thoroughly ripe, then crush lightly immediately. The first run of the juice will make a very sprightly light red wine." Right on, Professor! About the Writer Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College and is Northern California Editor for American Wine on the Web. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.	Read more articles by Fred McMillin in the eGGsf Welcome to WineDay, the electronic Gourmet Guide's daily update. Monday through Thursday, WineDay presents a wine profile. Then on Fridays we present the Winery of the Week to take you through the weekend Current WineDay January WineDays February WineDays March WineDays April WineDays May WineDays June WineDays 07/22/97 A Brilliant Brightlighter 07/21/97 The Charles Krug Winery, Napa's First 07/18/97 Winery of the Week Mastroberardino Winery 07/17/97 A Wine from Casablanca? 07/16/97 What's "Spritz"? 07/15/97 A Down-to-Earth Wine 07/14/97 The Price of Wine 07/11/97 Winery of the Week Llano Estacado Winery 07/10/97 World-Class Blass 07/09/97 Jumpin' Jehoshaphat, Whadda Muscat! 07/08/97 The Leap, From Bordeaux to Stags 07/07/97 Call Up the Reserves? 07/04/97 Winery of the Week Palmer Vineyards 07/03/97 The Two Black Opals 07/02/97 An Underground Chardonnay 07/01/97 B & G? Oui, Oui!
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