by Fred McMillin for May 28, 1997 Quiet! Woman at Work Prologue: "Our 1994 Chardonnay sold out very quickly." Milla Handley, Co-owner and Winemaker The Rest of the Story: Since the '94 Chardonnay was such a success, Milla used the identical steps to make the '95. Right? WRONG! If you are the great-great-granddaughter of the legendary brewmaster Henry Weinhard, each new vintage presents an irresistible opportunity to make an even better wine. Milla doesn't quit (experimenting) when she's ahead. Here are some of the innovations you can taste in her 1995 Dry Creek Chardonnay. Direct pressing involves gently extracting the juice without crushing the grapes. The results are that the brilliant fruit flavors please the winemaker, but the drop in production from 175 gallons a ton to 160 displeases the bean counters (accountants). Native yeast use was increased in the '95. Fermentation seems to take forever, but notice the rich texture and mouthfeel that is produced. We could go on, but you get the idea. Noted L.A. Times critic Dan Berger called Milla "a brilliant wine stylist." This wine confirms it. 1995 Chardonnay, Dry Creek Valley 100% from Handley's 10 acres of Dry Creek Chardonnay vines Handley Cellars Philo, CA Phone (800) 733-3151; ask for Heidi Cusick's Spicy Shrimp recipe to serve with the wine. $17 Category: Highly Recommended for those who enjoy a balanced Chardonnay more than an oak powerhouse; Milla uses all French oak, but doesn't allow it to dominate. Postscript: Milla and husband Rex McClellan founded Handley Cellars in their basement in 1982. Their total production was 250 cases of???? You guessed it...Chardonnay. About the Writer Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College and is Northern California Editor for American Wine on the Web. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.

Read more articles by Fred McMillin in the eGGsf Welcome to WineDay, the electronic Gourmet Guide's daily update. Monday through Thursday, WineDay presents a wine profile. Then on Fridays we present the Winery of the Week to take you through the weekend Current WineDay January WineDays February WineDays March WineDays April WineDays 05/27/97 Yorkville Fills the Bill 05/26/97 A Cab Lab 05/23/97 Winery of the Week De Loach Vineyards 05/22/97 When the Vintners Drew a Blanc 05/21/97 Barbera with Backbone 05/20/97 Make Mine Merlot 05/19/97 Waiting for Verdot (vair-dough) 05/16/97 Winery of the Week Sutter Home Winery 05/15/97 What's OVOC Zinfandel? 05/14/97 The Olympic Games White, A Reprise 05/13/97 Roy's Niche in Time 05/12/97 Meanwhile, Back at the Chateau 05/09/97 Winery of the week Gundlach-Bundschu Wine Company 05/08/97 A Pretty Pink for Mother's Day 05/07/97 Was the Wine a Success? 05/06/97 A 365-Acre Adventure 05/05/97 A Little Star 05/02/97 Winery of the week Scharffenberger Cellars 05/01/97 Pinot Noir's Kissin' Cousin

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