
by Fred McMillin
for March 6, 1998
Winery of the Week
Red Hot Rosemount
Prologue
1864—Karl Brecht plants vines in the Upper
Hunter Valley, north of Sydney in Australia. His
winery was named Rosemount, and his wines won
awards in Bordeaux competition. After his death,
the land reverted to cattle pastures.
1969—Papua New Guinea coffee trading provided
Sydney-born Bob Oatley with some extra change
to invest in pasture land...in the Upper Hunter
Valley, where he discovered the ruins of the
original Rosemount winery.
1975—A small, new winery and vineyard are
added to the estate. The operation is so small
that Bob and his friends are able to harvest the
entire first vintage of his new Rosemount Winery.
1990—By now the family and friends had to get
a little help with the harvest; production was
over 400,000 cases a year!
1996—Rosemount sales in the U.S.A. alone exceed 400,000 cases.
The Rest of the Story
Rosemount wines are an obvious success. Who makes 'em?
His name is Phillip Shaw. He trained north of
Adelaide at Roseworthy Agricultural College; the
press calls its winegrowing courses, founded
in 1936, the best in the country. Critic
Thomas Hardy says Shaw "is one of the three or
four most gifted winemakers in the country."
What does he make that you can purchase in
America?
Phillip's Wines
Here's a sampling of comments by seasoned American
and Aussie writers.
Chardonnay—"Their Roxburgh is the richest
of the country."
Shiraz (Syrah)—This is the most widely planted
premium grape in Australia. Over 350,000 cases
a year of Rosemount Shiraz are sold in the U.S.A.,
which beats the competition by far. Phillip
believes a major reason for this popularity
is that he makes them "more plummy and riper"
than those from the Rhone.
Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon Blend—The Aussies are
noted for their non-traditional blends. This one
draws critic's comments like "lovely, zesty."
Your U.S.A. Contact
The English major at S.F. State University
had little idea that some three decades later
he would be president of Rosemount Estates, USA.
But a public relations client one fateful day
asked him to scout out some good Aussie wines.
However, at Syndey tastings he got scouted out
himself and wound up being hired to run what
became a sensational Rosemount invasion.
For
help in selecting the right wine for you, phone his
Sonoma office at (707) 996-4505 and ask for John
Gay. Brecht, Oatley, Shaw, Gay...a few good men behind
many good wines.
Postscript:
A few decades before
Karl Brecht planted those first Rosemount
vines, nearby New Zealand had a passenger
on a visiting ship note that the wine vines
were doing well. The year -
1835, the ship—the H.M.S. Beagle,
and the notetaker—Charles Darwin!
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About the Writer
Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College and is Northern California Editor for American Wine on the Web. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.
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Fred McMillin
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