by Fred McMillin
for February 25, 1998
Heaven Sent St. Clement
Prologue
"Our 1994 St. Clement Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most successful vintages we've ever produced. It's much bigger and fruitier, with less tannins."
...Dennis Johns, WinemakerThe Rest of the Story
Since my panel had given top marks to the '92 and '93 Cabs, we all wanted to know how Dennis had improved the '94 vintage. Here's how he did it.
The Tannins
New, thin-staved French oak provides the desired oak highlights in less time, reducing the extraction of harsh tannins from the wood.Howell Mountain Grapes
Now the Cab includes St. Clement's new mountain-grown fruit, which Dennis finds to have "dense, briary-blackberry fruit with bigger flavors."Late Picking
Last, although waiting makes everyone nervous, they picked later than in the past. This adds even further density and richness.The Panel
My 14 tasters are not easily swayed but a couple of sniffs and sips of this one and they voted it EXCELLENT.The Wine
1994 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
St. Clement Vineyards, St. Helena, CA.
Contact—Ms. Jennifer Lamb, (707) 963-7221
Price—$26 rangePostscript
Note: For much more about St. Clement, see the Sept. 12, 1997 WineDay titled, "When the Saints Come Marching In."
About the Writer
Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College and is Northern California Editor for American Wine on the Web. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.
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