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by Fred McMillin
for February 6, 1998
Winery of the Week
Menada of Bulgaria
Prologue
Bulgarian Legend—During the reign of Khan Kroum, who had ordered the destruction of all vineyards, panic broke
out when one of his caged lions escaped and terrorized the city. The lion was ultimately slain by a fearless young
man. The Khan summonded his mother to learn the source of such courage. Fearfully she confessed to having preserved
one vine, from which was made the wine which gave her son, Mavrud, the strength and bravery to confront the lion.
The king was so impressed vineyards were again planted and to this day one of the varietals is named Mavrud.
The Rest of the Story
Bulgarian-born Vance Petrunoff hasn't slain a lion, but he has just as much courage. With no connections, he
jumped off a Soviet plane which was refueling in Anchorage, and ultimately gained political asylum in the U.S.A.
A decade later
he is leading the charge into a wine nitch. The high prestige and low yields of California wines have reduced the
supply of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the $6 to $8 range. Now, Great Britain knows where to get them. This
year they will import about FIVE MILLION cases of Bulgarian wine, including plenty of Cab and Merlot. The U.S.A.
brings in a paltry 150,000 cases. Vance has set up shop in Sonoma. One of his brands is Menada , the first Bulgarian
winery to return to private hands. It is operated privately by the Siarovi brothers. This is a very comfortable
relationship, since the winery was in private hands when it opened in 1901. It won medals then, and now Menada
is the first Bulgarian wine to win a U.S.A. Gold Medal. Try the $6 Merlot and $6 '92 Reserve Cab. Khan Kroum would
have been impressed.
Just the Facts
| Company |
Bulgarian Master Vintners |
| Importer |
President, Vance T. Petrunoff |
| Location |
650 Fourth Street East,
Sonoma, California 95476 |
| Phone |
(707) 939-8719 |
| Other Wines |
1991 Private Reserve Cab, Menada Winery, $8.
1995 VINE Merlot, Vini Winery, (earned a Silver Medal in Paris competition), $6. |
Postscript
Bulgaria can boast of many wine milestones. It was one of the first areas where the wine god Dionysus held sway.
Homer mentioned the area's wines in both the Iliad and the Odyssey. Perhaps the most significant is the recent
archaeological evidence that wine was made there in the New Stone Age; there were not a lot of other wineries around
in 6,000 B.C., like maybe none.
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About the Writer
Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently
teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College and is Northern California Editor for
American Wine on the Web. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates
of Commendation awarded to American wine writers. |
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More articles by
Fred McMillin

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