So the Pilgrims and their Long Island neighbors never produced a Chardonnay to enjoy with that seafood. But three centuries later, insects and climate have been conquered and Long Island is producing outstanding Chardonnays. Critics rate Robert Palmer's one of the best. In the Nov. 22,1996 WineDay, my panel rated the '93 Palmer over a number of prestigious Napa Valley Chards. Robert's vines are a mature 16 years old, he personally selects the new French oak barrels used in the fermentation, etc. Anthony Dias Blue likes the results: "lush, rich with toasty oak." Contact: (516) 722-WINE, FAX (516) 722-5364.

Note: For more about the Robert Palmer Winery and its 55-acre vineyard on the North Fork, Long Island see the July 4, 1997 WineDay , "A Winery George Washington Would Have Loved".

About the Writer Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.